Thank you for purchasing one of my razors. I trust it will provide you with a lifetime of shaving enjoyment. The following is a short explanation of how I do things in the shop. It is not the only way to do it. Others will have their own techniques that work well for them. Don't be afraid to experiment a little. That's part of the fun of using a straight razor.

New – Out of the box

Your razor will arrive with a heavy coat of Classic Razor Oil on the blade surface. Wipe off all the oil you can using a paper towel or facial tissue. Be very careful around the edge. The razor is supplied “shave ready” and will cut you if you are not careful. Try not to cut the paper while you are doing this. The cellulose and lignin in the paper are very tough on the edge.

These days, many users are uneasy about the possibility of bacteria on the blade. If you are one of them, put the blade in boiling water for five minutes. This will not hurt the temper of the blade. Be sure not to bang the blade edge on the pot. Also, be sure to protect the handle material from the hot water and the stove.

For the first few uses, you may notice a black residue coming off the blade. This is iron oxide left from the etching of the Damascus pattern. The black layers are slightly pitted during the etching. These microscopic pits hold the iron oxide. After several uses the black residue should be completely cleaned out.

Daily Care

Treat your Damascus razor as you would any other carbon steel razor. After shaving, rinse the blade with hot water and gently dry with a towel. Be sure all the water is off the blade. Lately, I have been applying a very thin layer of Classic Razor Oil to the blade. This assures there will be no oxidation, of the edge, before the next use.

The scales require little, or no care. They are treated with a gun stock oil finish. If you like, you can give them a light coat of a good wax. I prefer Renaissance Wax.

Stropping

Stropping the blade before use improves the edge. Usually 30 – 50 strokes on a leather hanging strop will keep the edge in good shape for weeks. Some prefer to start with a clean linen or hard wool felt strop, and follow with the leather. Once the strop will no longer keep the edge smoothly shaving, it is time for re-honing.

B. Honing Steps

For a complete re-working of the edge. There is a lot more to do. If the edge has a minor chip, you would start with step 1 and the 4000 grit Norton. To do general polishing, that you can't do with the finish stone, start with step 2. For a very minor touch-up, start with step 3 or 4.

For honing, lay the blade flat on the hone and gently slide it across. when reaching the other end, roll the blade over it's back and go back the other way. This constitutes one stroke. It is extremely important to only use the weight of the razor on the hone. Pushing down on the razor, to speed things up, or rocking the blade up on it's edge will ruin the edge geometery.

This is how I'm doing things in my shop , on my razors, as of winter 2009. There are many other techniques that may work as well, or better. This is just how I like to do it.

        1. Norton 4000 - 10 strokes, or whatever it takes to remove all visible chipping.
      
        2. Norton  8000 - 20 strokes
          
        3. Chinese 12,000, or Escher - 20 strokes
               
                3.a. Optional - Here I like to add two additional layers of tape, for a total of three. This increases the angle by about two degrees, making it easier to get a smooth edge with the final honing. Use 20 additional strokes  with the Chinese 12,000. This is not considered the traditional way of doing things, but I like it. Otherwise skip to step 4 and stay with one layer of tape.
      
        4. Escher, or Shapton GlassStone 30,000 - 10 strokes. If you opted for 3a, leave the three layers of tape.
      
        5. Balsa wood bench hone with Classic White Lapping Paste (for extra sharpness) - 15 strokes. Remember to pull away from the edge. If you opted for step 3a, leave three layers of tape.

        6. Balsa wood bench hone with Classic Chromium Oxide Paste (for extra smoothness) - 25 strokes. Remember to pull away from the edge. If you opted for step 3a, leave three layers of tape.
           
        7. Hanging strop, treated with Chromium Oxide paste, for  this step. Don't use any tape. 20 strokes.

        8. Hanging strop - 50 strokes on clean horsehide, English bridle or latigo. No tape at all here either.

      
The condition of the final edge is a very personal thing. Those that prefer a very agressive edge will prefer to skip step #6. This will leave the edge very similar that of a Feather disposable blade. It is very sharp, yet unforgiving.  Nicks and razor burn are a potential hazard for the beginner. The Chromium oxide, step #6, smooths and polishes the edge, resulting in a more comfortable shave.

This is where things get interesting. If you don't have an Escher hone, you can skip step 4 and go on to step 5. If you don't have an Escher or Balsa bench hone, you can skip steps 4, 5 and 6. You can also substitute a Spyderco Ultra-Fine, Coticule, or Shapton hone for the Escher. The variations are endless. It is really fun to experiment with this and see what you prefer.

The edge on a straight razor is actually quite fragile. It is best to try and keep anything from touching the edge of your razor, other than: your properly prepared face and wiskers, strop and hones. A lot of the "edge testing" that is done can actually damage the edge of a fine razor. The "thumbnail test", hainging hair test", and "thumb pad test" are commonly used. These tests are useful during the initial honing of a razor, but should not be tried on the finished edge. The best test for a razor, is to shave with it, on properly prepared wiskers.

Long term storage

For long term storage, coat the blade and scales with a good gun oil or grease. I prefer RIG gun grease for this as it doesn't evaporate, and is safe for the wood. Wrap the razor in a cotton cloth or paper towel. Store in a cool dry place.

Returning the Razor for Service

I am happy to offer honing service for my razors. Normal honing is available for a $20.00 fee. Please understand, this is for normal honing and does not cover chip or rust removal. That would be considered repair and quoted on an individual basis. For razor honing service e-mail: info@classicshaving.com.

I am willing to repair razors I've made. If you have damaged your razor, please call or write for a repair estimate.

Thank you again for purchasing one of my razors. I trust it will provide you with a lifetime of shaving enjoyment. If you have any questions or comments, please don't hesitate to write.

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E-Mail: tim@tzknives.com